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When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.